Food & drink
What to eat in Yerevan
Yerevan is the best place in Armenia to eat across the whole country's repertoire, because regional cooking from Lori, Syunik, Vayots Dzor and the diaspora has all landed here. The base is bread, herbs, dairy and grilled meat: lavash at essentially every meal, large quantities of fresh greens treated as a dish rather than a garnish, sour dairy in soups and sauces, and charcoal-grilled khorovats as the centrepiece of anything celebratory. Vegetables are strongly seasonal and summer stone fruit is exceptional, with apricots in particular treated as a point of national pride. Eating is social and unhurried; a proper khorovats meal is an afternoon, not a course. Alongside the traditional restaurants there is a genuine contemporary dining and specialty-coffee scene concentrated around the Opera and Cascade, which has developed quickly and is worth using rather than avoiding as inauthentic.
01Khorovats
Armenian charcoal barbecue, most often pork, lamb or chicken, cooked over embers on skewers and served with grilled vegetables, raw onion with herbs and lavash. It is the default celebratory meal and portions are generous.
Typical price: Commonly around 3,000–6,000 AMD per portion in the city as of September 2026
Look for it: Proshyan Street is the street most associated with khorovats restaurants in Yerevan and is a reasonable starting point, though good versions are widespread.
02Lavash
Thin unleavened flatbread baked against the wall of a clay tonir oven. It is inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as an expression of Armenian culture. Fresh, it is soft and pliable; a day later it is used to wrap grilled meat and herbs.
Typical price: Nominal; usually served with the meal
Look for it: Everywhere, but worth seeking out somewhere baking in a visible tonir to see how it is made.
03Tolma
Stuffed leaves or vegetables. The grape-leaf version filled with spiced minced meat and rice is the best known, but summer brings tolma made with tomatoes, peppers and aubergines, and there is a meatless lenten version built on beans and grains.
Typical price: Commonly around 2,500–4,500 AMD as of September 2026
Look for it: Traditional Armenian restaurants across the centre. Ask whether the lenten version is available if you want the vegetarian form.
04Spas
A warm soup of fermented dairy thickened with wheat grain and finished with herbs, most often mint. It tastes distinctly sour and is closer to a restorative than a starter. It divides visitors sharply and is worth trying for exactly that reason.
Typical price: Commonly around 1,200–2,500 AMD as of September 2026
Look for it: Traditional restaurants; frequently on lunch menus.
05Harissa
A dense porridge of wheat and slow-cooked meat, beaten until it becomes smooth and almost elastic. It carries strong commemorative associations and is a winter and feast-day dish rather than an everyday one.
Typical price: Commonly around 2,000–3,500 AMD as of September 2026
Look for it: Restaurants specialising in traditional cooking; more reliably available in colder months.
06Ghapama
A pumpkin hollowed out and baked with rice, dried fruit, nuts and honey, then opened at the table. It is festive and largely seasonal, appearing in autumn and winter when pumpkins are good.
Typical price: Commonly around 4,000–8,000 AMD as a shared dish as of September 2026
Look for it: Traditional restaurants in autumn and winter; often needs ordering ahead because of the cooking time.
07Jingalov hats
A flatbread packed with a large number of chopped wild herbs and greens, originally from Artsakh and now widely available in Yerevan. The filling changes with the season and the number of distinct herbs is the point.
Typical price: Commonly around 800–1,500 AMD as of September 2026
Look for it: Specialist bakeries and traditional restaurants; a good vegan option.
08Basturma and sujukh
Air-dried beef coated in a fenugreek-heavy spice paste, and spiced dried sausage. Both are strongly flavoured, sold by weight in markets and served in thin slices as a starter. Not to be confused with the sweet sujukh sold at markets, which is walnuts strung on thread and dipped repeatedly in thickened grape must.
Typical price: Sold by weight; varies by cut and market
Look for it: GUM Market for buying by weight; most traditional restaurants serve basturma as a cold starter.
09Gata
A sweet pastry with a layered, buttery, sugar-flour filling. Regional versions differ noticeably in size, sweetness and decoration, and it is commonly sold at monastery car parks and roadside stops as well as city bakeries.
Typical price: Commonly around 500–1,500 AMD as of September 2026
Look for it: Bakeries across the city, and on day trips where roadside vendors sell regional versions.